Understand edit

 
Garlanded statue, Wat Rajanadda, Bangkok

Called the "Land of Smiles", Thailand is the heart of the Southeast Asian mainland. It has relatively good infrastructure, with Bangkok being an intercontinental flight hub, and the country is the gateway to the region for most foreign visitors. The country is extremely well developed for tourism, and yet outside the backpacker hubs and expat hangouts, you'll find an underlying soul, culture and kindness that will leave you with a lifelong and perhaps life-changing impression. Whatever your cup of tea is, they know how to make it in Thailand.

This is not to say that Thailand doesn't have its downsides, including the considerable growing pains of an economy where an agricultural labourer is lucky to earn 100 baht per day while the nouveaux riches cruise past in their BMWs. Bangkok, the capital, is notorious for its traffic jams and rampant development has wrecked much of once-beautiful Pattaya and Phuket. In heavily touristed areas, some lowlifes, both Thai and farang, have made scamming tourists into an art form.

Finally, despite being relatively economically developed, Thailand still suffers from problems that afflict most Southeast Asian countries, such as new towns and neighbourhoods built haphazardly and with no concern for architectural beauty, the lack of accessibility and pedestrian-friendliness in large cities, and often, presence of trash and litter in both cities and rural areas.

History edit

The earliest identifiable Thai kingdom was founded in Sukhothai in 1238, reaching its zenith under King Ramkhamhaeng in the 14th century before falling under the control of the kingdom of Ayutthaya, which ruled most of present-day Thailand and much of today's Laos and Cambodia as well, eventually also absorbing the northern kingdom of Lanna. Ayutthaya was sacked in 1767 by the Burmese, but King Taksin regrouped and founded a new capital at Thonburi. His successor, General Chakri, moved across the river to Bangkok and became King Rama I, the founding father of the Chakri Dynasty that still rules as a constitutional monarchy.

Known as Siam until 1939, Thailand is Southeast Asia's oldest independent country and the only one never to have been colonised by a foreign power, and the country's inhabitants are fiercely proud of that fact. A bloodless revolution in 1932 led to a constitutional monarchy. During World War II, while Japan conquered the rest of Southeast Asia (see Pacific War), only Thailand was not conquered by the Japanese due to smart political moves. Allied with Japan during World War II, Thailand became a U.S. ally following the conflict. Thailand was a base of U.S. air operations during the Vietnam War, and was also a popular place for American soldiers fighting in Vietnam to have their R&R, thus kickstarting Thailand's world famous tourism industry. There was a communist insurgency, with little success, that only ended in 1983. After a string of military dictatorships and quickly toppled civilian prime ministers, Thailand stabilized into a fair approximation of a democracy and the economy boomed through tourism and industry.

On December 26, 2004, an earthquake in the Indian Ocean caused a tsunami to hit Thailand's western coast, causing tremendous damage and killing thousands of people, especially at the seaside resorts.

In September 2006, a swift and bloodless military coup overthrew populist tycoon Thaksin Shinawatra's democratically-elected but widely criticized government, exposing a fault line between the urban elite that has ruled Thailand traditionally and the rural masses that supported Thaksin. Thaksin went into exile and a series of unstable governments followed, with the successors of Thaksin's Thai Rak Thai party and the royalist-conservative People's Alliance for Democracy duking it out both behind the scenes and, occasionally, out in the streets, culminating in Bangkok's airports being seized and shut down for a week in Nov 2008.

A new party led by Thaksin's sister, Yingluck Shinawatra, won the 2011 elections, but while like Thaksin, she maintained popularity in the Central Thai countryside, the North and Isaan, and among Muslims in the South, powerful people in the Thai military and the Bangkok establishment never accepted the legitimacy of her government, and on May 7, 2014, Thailand's Constitutional Court ordered her and her cabinet to step down. On May 22, 2014, the Thai army staged a bloodless coup, declared a nationwide curfew, and went about arresting members of Yingluck's Pheu Thai Party. The curfew was lifted on June 13, 2014, but the basic elements that have led to the conflict are still unresolved.

After the death in late 2016 of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX), the world's longest-reigning monarch and a deeply loved and respected figure of near-mythic proportions, his son King Vajiralongkorn Bodindradebayavarangkun (Rama X) ascended the throne. King Vajiralongkorn does not have anything close to the popularity that his father had enjoyed, and his reign has been marred by youth-led protests calling for the abolition of the monarchy. A general election was held in March 2019 under a new 2017 Constitution. However, the new constitution gives the military the exclusive right to appoint senators, and also gives senators a vote in selecting the prime minister, thus granting the military substantial influence in Thai politics.

Thailand has grown into the main economic centre of the region, and today attracts many migrant workers from its much poorer neighbours Myanmar, Laos and Cambodia.

Geography edit

Thailand lies north of the equator and comprises an area of 513,120 sq kms. The country features a landscape of varied topography including mountain ranges, fertile river plains and plateaus. The coastline has a total area of 3,219 kms and contains 1,430 offshore islands.

Politics edit

The Kingdom of Thailand (ราชอาณาจักรไทย Ratcha-anachak Thai) is a constitutional monarchy, with the king as head of state. The Thai parliament is bicameral, consisting of a military-appointed upper house known as the Senate, as well as a popularly-elected lower house known as House of Representatives. The prime minister is the head of government, and is voted in by the members of both houses of parliament.

In practice, the king's role is largely ceremonial, with the prime minister holding the most authority in government. However, the king and the royal family are still protected by strict lèse-majesté laws, which stipulate long jail terms for anybody convicted of insulting the king or any other members of the royal family.

Climate edit

 
Beach on Ko Tao

Thailand is largely tropical. It's hot and humid all year around with temperatures in the 28-35°C range (82-95°F), a degree of relief provided only in the mountains in the far north of Thailand. There are, however, three seasons:

  • Cool: From Nov to the end of Feb, it doesn't rain much and temperatures are at their lowest, although you will barely notice the difference in the south and will only need to pack a sweater if hiking in the northern mountains, where temperatures can fall as low as 5°C. This is the most popular time to visit and, especially around Christmas and New Year's or at Chinese New Year a few weeks later, finding flights and accommodation can be expensive and difficult.
  • Hot: From Mar-Apr, Thailand swelters in temperatures as high as 40°C (104°F) and heat indices in the 50s°C (122-140°F), with April generally being the hottest month. Pleasant enough when sitting on the beach with a drink in hand, but not the best time of year to go temple-tramping in Bangkok.
  • Rainy: From May-Oct, although it only really gets underway in Sep, when tropical monsoons hit most of the country. This doesn't mean it rains non-stop, but when it does it pours and flooding is not uncommon.

There are local variations to these general patterns. In particular, the Central Gulf Coast of Thailand (including Ko Samui) has the rains reversed, with the dry peak season being May-Oct and the rainy off-season in Nov-Feb.

Demographics edit

Thailand is among one of the most diverse countries in the world.

Ethnic groups edit

  • Native Tais [sic] are the largest ethnic group in the country. Tais speak a set of related languages, including not only Thai but also Lao, a dialect of which is spoken by the Isaan people in Northeast Thailand.
  • Khmer people, who make up the majority of the population across the border in Cambodia, are numerous in Thailand, as well.
  • Thailand is home to the largest ethnic Chinese population outside Greater China. They are well represented in all levels of Thai society, and many of the country's largest businesses, banks, and conglomerates were founded by them, and quite a number of them have served as prime minister. Most Thai-Chinese people are of Teochew descent. There is a great deal of intermarriage between Chinese and Tai people, facilitated by the traditional commonality of both groups being Buddhists. Thai-Chinese have assimilated into Thai society over the generations.
  • Malays are mainly concentrated in Southern Thailand, with a sizeable community in Bangkok as well.
  • Thailand is home to a large community of Indians and they are mainly concentrated in Bangkok. Thai Indians own and operate many of the country's textile businesses, have started and set up various factories around the country, and are major players in the jewelry trade. Most Thai Indians are of Punjabi descent.
  • Northern Thailand is home to many hill tribes such as the Karen, the Mon, and the Hmong. Each hill tribe adheres to a unique set of customs and values.
  • Thailand is home to a sizeable Burmese community. Most Burmese people come to Thailand as refugees, fleeing political instability and violence in their home country. Burmese people in Thailand tend to work in a wide range of menial jobs.
  • There's a sizable Pakistani community in Thailand. A lot of Pakistanis in Thailand are Pakistani Christians. Many of them have come to Thailand as asylum seekers seeking a safe haven from religious discrimination and violence in Pakistan.
  • Many Jews from Iraq, Iran, Israel and Afghanistan emigrated to Thailand during the 1950s.
  • There's a sizable Russian community in Thailand. Many Russians are based in Phuket. Since 2022, many Russians have come to Thailand as refugees seeking a safe place to express themselves.

Religion edit

Thailand is, by law, a secular state. That being said, most Thai people are religious and consider religion to be an important part of their lives.

The following religions are officially recognised by the government: Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, and Sikhism.

The overwhelmingly dominant religion in Thailand is Theravada Buddhism and is practiced by virtually all Thais.

A significant minority of Thais are Muslim, mainly concentrated in the southern provinces. Most Thai Muslims are Sunni Muslims.

A small number of Thais are Christian. Christianity was introduced to Thailand by European missionaries in the 16th century. Most Thai Christians are Catholic, although there is a sizeable Protestant community.

Culture edit

 
Wat Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai

Mainland Thai culture is heavily influenced by Buddhism. However, unlike the Buddhist countries of East Asia, Thailand's Buddhists follow the Theravada school, which is arguably closer to its Indian roots and places a heavier emphasis on monasticism. Thai temples known as wats — resplendent with gold and easily identifiable with their ornate, multicolored, pointy roofs — are ubiquitous. Becoming an orange-robed monk for a short period, typically the three-month rainy season, is a common rite of passage for young Thai boys and men. That being said, there are also prominent Mahayana Buddhist temples, most of which were built in Chinese architectural styles to serve the ethnic Chinese community.

One pre-Buddhist tradition that still survives is the spirit house (ศาลพระภูมิ saan phraphuum), usually found at the corner of any house or business, which houses spirits so they don't enter the house and cause trouble. The grander the building, the larger the spirit house, and buildings placed in particularly unlucky spots may have very large ones. Perhaps the most famous spirit house in Thailand is the Erawan Shrine in Bangkok, which protects the Erawan Hotel (now the Grand Hyatt Erawan), built in 1956 on a former execution ground, and is now one of the busiest and most popular shrines in the city. It and several other popular shrines pay homage to Hindu deities. Hinduism was once the dominant religion in Thailand prior to the spread of Buddhism, and many traditional Thai arts continue to draw their inspiration from Hindu mythology.

Some traditional arts popular in Thailand include traditional Thai dancing and music, based on religious rituals and Court entertainment. There is a vibrant popular music scene with morlam and lukthung not at all overshadowed by Western style pop. Famously brutal Thai boxing (muay Thai), derived from the military training of Thai warriors, is undoubtedly the country's best known indigenous sport.

In addition to the mainland Thai culture, there are many other cultures in Thailand including those of the "hill tribes" in the northern mountainous regions of Thailand (e.g., Hmong, Karen, Lisu, Lahu, Akha), the southern Muslims, and indigenous island peoples of the Andaman Sea. The ethnic Chinese population has been largely assimilated into Thai culture, though vestiges of their Chinese heritage can still be found in Bangkok's Chinatown. The Chinese have, however, left a huge impact on Thailand's culinary scene, and many dishes of Chinese origin, such as noodles, roast pork and steamed buns, have been widely adopted and are now seen as an integral part of Thai cuisine. The Thai-Chinese can generally be divided into two groups: those that migrated to Thailand as traders and labourers during the 19th and early 20th centuries, who mainly came from Fujian, Guangdong or Hainan and settled in the larger cities like Bangkok, Hat Yai and Phuket; and some groups of Kuomintang soldiers who fled China in the aftermath of the Chinese Civil War, who mainly came from Yunnan and settled in remote mountain villages along the Burmese border like Mae Salong and Ban Rak Thai.

Calendar edit

In addition to the Gregorian calendar, Thailand also uses the Thai solar calendar, the Thai version of the Buddhist calendar, which is 543 years ahead of the common era calendar. Thus, Thai year 2567 corresponds to the Western year 2024. Thai dates in English are often written as B.E., short for "Buddhist Era".

Some Thai holidays are based on the Thai lunar calendar, so their dates change every year in the Western calendar.

Holidays edit

 
Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Ayutthaya

Thailand has many holidays, mostly related to Buddhism and the monarchy. Nobody celebrates all of them, except for banks, which seem to be closed a lot.

  • Chinese New Year (ตรุษจีน). Starting in January or February (the exact dates vary according to the lunar calendar, see box), it is also known as the Spring Festival or the Lunar New Year and celebrations can last for about 15 days. Although not a public holiday, it is widely celebrated among the Thai-Chinese, who celebrate by cleaning their houses and offering food to their ancestors. This is mainly a time of abundant feasting. Visit Yaowarat, Bangkok's Chinatown to fully embrace the festivity.
  • Makha Bucha (มาฆบูชา). Falls on the full moon of the third lunar month, which usually falls in February or March, and commemorates the spontaneous gathering of 1,250 people before the Buddha, which led to their ordination and subsequent enlightenment. At temples in Bangkok and throughout Thailand, Buddhists carry candles and walk around the main shrine three times in a clockwise direction.
  • Songkran (สงกรานต์). Undoubtedly the most fun holiday, is the celebration of the Thai New Year, sometime in April (officially 13-15 Apr, but the date varies in some locations). What started off as polite ritual to wash away the sins of the prior year has evolved into the world's largest water fight, which lasts for three full days. Water pistols and Super Soakers are advised and are on sale everywhere. The best places to participate are Chiang Mai, the Khao San Road area in Bangkok, and holiday resorts like Pattaya, Ko Samui and Phuket. You will get very wet, this is not a spectator sport. The water-throwing has been getting more and more unpleasant as people have started splashing iced water onto each other. It is advisable to wear dark clothing, as light colours may become transparent when wet.
  • Coronation Day. 5 May, commemorates the crowning of King Rama IX in 1950 (although his reign actually began on 9 Jun 1946 - making him the longest-serving monarch in Thai history)
  • Loy Krathong (ลอยกระทง). Falls on the first full moon day in the twelfth month of the lunar calendar, usually in November, when people head to rivers, lakes and even hotel swimming pools to float flower and candle-laden banana leaves (or, these days, Styrofoam) floats called krathong (กระทง). The krathong is meant as an offering to thank the river goddess who gives life to the people. Thais also believe that this is a good time to float away your bad luck and many will place a few strands of hair or finger nail clippings in the krathong. According to tradition, if you make a wish when you set down your krathong and it floats out of sight before the candle burns out, your wish will come true. Some provinces have their own version of Loy Krathong, such as Sukhothai where a spectacular show takes place. To the north, Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai have their own unique tradition of launching kom or hot-air lanterns. This sight can be breath-taking as the sky is suddenly filled with lights, rivalling the full moon.
  • King's Birthday (Father's Day). 28 July, the King's birthday is the country's National Day and also celebrated as Father's Day, when Thais pay respect to and show their love for his majesty the king. Buildings and homes are decorated with the King's flag (yellow with his insignia in the middle) and his portrait. Government buildings, as well as commercial buildings, are decorated with lights. In Old Bangkok (Rattanakosin) in particular, around the royal palace, you will see lavish light displays on trees, buildings, and the roads. The Queen's Birthday (12 Aug) is Mother's Day, and is celebrated similarly if with a little less pomp.

Tourist information edit